Connecticut is the Constitution State. The Nutmeg State. Gateway to New England. Those of us who live here know it as The Land of Steady Habits. When my partner and I first moved here in 2004, I was under the impression that most of Connecticut was made up of “Official Preppy Handbook” holdovers. It only took one trip to the DMV to dispossess me of that notion. Since then, I’ve found it to harbor some contradictions: 1) It’s one of America’s richest states, yet its cities are among the poorest; 2) Its location affords easy access to two of the Northeast’s major metropolitan areas, yet Connecticut’s residents—among the most surprisingly parochial people I’ve ever encountered—resist traveling more than a few towns away, let alone to New York or Boston; and 3) Although it is a bastion of true-blue progressive politics and is made up of charming, New England towns and manicured suburbs, there are pockets of it (particularly between the center of the state and the casinos) that are surprisingly redneck-y.
Connecticut State Capitol
In fact, the more I think about it, this state in which I live, and that I really do love, is very odd. Bridgeport holds the distinction of being Connecticut’s largest city, but it’s not really a city at all, unless your only definition is a place with high crime and poverty. My definition includes things like a discernible skyline, a cultural institution or two, good restaurants and nicer shopping. New Haven has some of those things (in particular, its restaurants) and benefits from being the home of Yale University. Yet it has more crime, and downtrodden neighborhoods, than most other cities its size. Then there’s Hartford, a place with such potential, and a place which, at first glance, looks kind of nice. Scratch the surface, though, and you’ll see that it’s a dump.
This should not be the case. It has a diminishing—though still strong—corporate base in the insurance industry. It has a riverfront and beautiful parks. Its metro area contains several handsome, well-to-do suburbs. But the city’s crime rate is high and self-esteem is low. With few exceptions, the restaurant and shopping scene is in West Hartford, and that’s where I recommend that visitors go after touring the capitol.
A capitol that is, in my view, a little too fancy and ornate. Overlooking Bushnell Park just west of downtown, the Connecticut State Capitol has so many ruffles and flourishes. It’s very striking, and nicely maintained… but just a bit much for my tastes. Much of the people’s business is conducted in the adjacent Legislative Office Building, but the governor’s office and both chambers are still in the capitol. Don’t bother with the Museum of Connecticut History, located across the street. I’ve been in many of these state history museums, and this one is, by far, the worst. It’s small, long-in-the-tooth, and doesn’t even begin to show a comprehensive view of the history of the state. As a proud Connecticut resident, I’m ashamed of it. Take in the Mark Twain House instead.
