Arkansas is one of those crossroads states that’s hard to miss. And yet, I made it to 47 states without ever getting to it. So in Spring 2009, I journeyed across the Mississippi River at Memphis and experienced something that never gets old: driving into a state in order to cross it off my list. Flying in just isn’t the same, because I love seeing the welcome signs at the border and getting off at the first exit to pick up travel information. I had other reasons to be excited about my Arkansas visit, as Little Rock is one of the few places that is home to both the state capitol and a presidential library/museum. My expectations were high.
Arkansas State Capitol
Little Rock gives off a good first impression. Massive it’s not, but it is the largest city in the state. Its downtown buildings are pleasing and appropriately proportioned, with a surprising number of new, inventive architectural styles. I headed right for the capitol, which is close to the central business district, but set apart on its own, expansive plot of land. And the building is a beauty. I particularly like how, in this shot, the deep red Arkansas flag is set against the stark white facade. The massive bronze doors at the entrance are especially spectacular.
A woman was going down the stairs when I was going up, and I asked her to photograph me in front of the building. After she did, she told me that this was a great day to visit, because “Chah-leee” was signing his book. She then explained that she was referring to Secretary of State Charlie Daniels, who had written a book about the history of the state, or some such topic. Once inside, I stopped by the small gift store near the rotunda to buy a miniature flag, as is my tradition. “Oh no,” said the young woman. “We don’t sell small flags, we give them away. Chah-leee would never want a visitor to buy his own flag.” There you go.
I wish the hospitality would have extended to the rather surly woman at the tour desk, who explained that they give tours by appointment only. I understand that policy on weekends, but this was a busy Thursday in the spring. Nonetheless, I took the self-guided tour and found lots to like. Sure enough, in one of the chambers, Chah-leee was faced with a long line of people waiting for him to sign their copy of his book. I particularly liked the portraits of the three Arkansas beauty queens who went on to win national titles; these portraits were sandwiched between the Little Rock Nine and Governor Clinton.
Speaking of “Bill” (this first-name-basis bit is big in Little Rock), he still looms large. Time and again, I was told by Little Rock residents that Bill is singlehandedly responsible for the resurgence of the city. It isn’t just the William J. Clinton Presidential Center (more on that in a moment). It’s the River Market. And the Heifer International headquarters. Little Rock has a newness and energy that would not exist if Bill hadn’t built his museum there (which made me wonder, where the heck else would he have built it?) His museum is unlike any other. Wags complain that it looks like a double-wide, set against the banks of the Arkansas River. I think it’s beautiful. Rather than going from room to room, as one would in most presidential museums, the exhibits here are mostly in a single, wide-open space. It’s modern and fast-paced… a real must see, regardless of your opinion of him. I wish that it would have focused more on his life before politics (and I wish that we could have walked into the exact replica of the Oval Office). Other than that, raves.
I also recommend the Little Rock location of Whole Hog Cafe for very good BBQ, Flying Fish at River Market for catfish and hush puppies, and to stay, Robinwood Bed & Breakfast. I’m very choosy about B&Bs, and this place is historic yet modern, set in the beautiful Quapaw Quarter historic district. The governor’s mansion is just down the street. Apparently, Bill, along with the current Arkansas governor, Mike Beebe, exemplify what it means to be a great neighbor. Mike Huckabee? Not so much.
