Is it Missour-ee or Missour-uh? Legend has it that the former is how the city slickers say it, and the latter is what the country folks use. The truth is that it’s probably a generational thing; and that these days, most people end Missouri the same way they end Mississippi. Hey, how ’bout that: Missouri and Mississippi each has a big river! And those two rivers happen to do much to define the Show Me State geographically and culturally.
Missouri State Capitol
The Missouri (River) enters the state at Kansas City, one of my very favorite cities. Smack-dab in the middle of the country, hiding in plain sight and dismissed by coastal snobs as “flyover country,” Kansas City is almost always a pleasant surprise to first-time visitors. I began my most recent visit there at the Harry S. Truman Library and Museum in Independence. I’ve been there three times and I have yet to tire of the place. Of course, it’s always better to first hit Gates Bar-B-Q (there’s even one in Independence). I’ve wanted to visit the Truman Home, but each time I’ve been in Independence, the wait for tickets has been too long. Next time… From there, head downtown, hang a left on Main and head up to the Liberty Memorial, which offers a wonderful view of downtown KC. The National WWI Museum is up there, too. Head back to Main Street and turn right. In a mile or two, you’ll pass through Westport, a cool, trendy area with restaurants and clubs. Then you’ll hit Country Club Plaza, which may just be the most beautiful shopping district in the country. Sure, it’s ritzy; but its fountains and Spanish-style architecture mean that you can enjoy it without spending a dime. From there, head down Ward Parkway, and you’ll see why Kansas City is both the City of Fountains and the City of Boulevards. You’ll see plenty of mansions (and we’re not talking McMansions here), well-manicured lawns and high-end motor vehicles. And yet, there’s a down-to-earth spirit here, and it feels a tad bit more western than any other midwestern city. To me, KC is Missouri’s gem.
Then there’s St. Louis, near where the Missouri meets the mighty Mississipp … a strong, interesting city that has contributed a lot to shaping our country. I like St. Louis, but I’m not gonna lie: I think of it as a place that breeds douchebags. Beer-swilling, baseball-obsessed, financial advising douchebags. I met a few of ‘em in college, and some after; and I think of its citizenry as being the polar opposite of Kansas Citians in one important way: they take themselves way too seriously. As the largest metropolitan area between Chicago (#3) and Dallas (#4), perhaps the people of St. Louis (#18) and its environs view it as being on par with the big guys. It isn’t quite. That’s not to say it doesn’t have a lot going for it: I think the entertainment district adjacent to Busch Stadium is vibrant. Its Forest Park is pretty. Who doesn’t love the Gateway Arch? It’s a Fortune 500 powerhouse for a city its size; and its cultural, medical, sporting, dining and entertainment options are vast. Clayton, Missouri — an independent city located inside St. Louis — has a youthful, 20-something kind of energy, and other suburbs, particularly those in West County, are attractive and prosperous. I think I’d find St. Louis more appealing if it would lose the chip on its shoulder.
Beyond those two cities, I can’t say that Missouri has a particularly sharp identity. Its diversity is represented in many ways, not the least of which is politically. Missouri purports to be a battleground state, but unlike Ohio, Pennsylvania or Michigan, where its Democratic-leaning cities can trump its Republican-leaning rural areas, Missouri’s aforementioned country folk seem to be more in charge. Oh sure, its congressional delegation is composed of people from both parties; and though the Republicans are in the majority in the state House and Senate, it’s not by much and the governor is a Democrat. But Missouri’s suburban residents probably lean a little more red than in other places. Bottom line: the state is never really in play.
Its southern parts mimic Arkansas. If you’ve ever been to Branson, you know that it’s Vegas without the sin. The northern parts of the state are not unlike Iowa. Then there’s the center part of the state, which could be Anywhere, USA. I’ve had two overnights in Columbia, and I’m ashamed to say that I have yet to take in the campus of Mizzou, aka University of Missouri, aka Columbia. Maybe next time.
I’ve also been to Jefferson City twice, and I don’t suppose I’ll ever have a compelling reason to return. I think it’s a crummy place; and it’s kind of a pain to get to (it’s one of a handful of capital cities not located on or near an interstate highway). I’m not a fan of the large state/small capital dichotomy (Harrisburg, PA; Springfield, IL; and Albany, NY fall into this category, too.) The capitol itself is a fine building, a classic style with columns and a dome. Probably its most unique feature is the huge mural, or murals, representing Missouri state history, done by Thomas Hart Benton. I chuckled at the dancing girls in the corner, who represent Kansas City’s rollicking, bawdy history. I think it’s a mistake that they use part of the building as a museum… a few exhibits does not a museum make. The Missouri History Museum in St. Louis might do the trick better; I’d like to check it out next time I’m there.
